By Tiffany Tao
Staff Writer
The sunny weather, low wind and long peeling waves made it the perfect day for surfing. The sun and the wetsuit warmed junior Jeremy Tran as he paddled out into the water on his board. Droplets of water splashed on his face as he pushed through the small currents and swiveled his head trying to find the perfect wave. When a barreling wave broke down the line and finally emerged, Tran quickly paddled himself into a position to catch it. The anticipation of surfing a wave had him kicking his feet and splashing the water around his board. Tran followed the current and momentum of the wave, and before it broke, he quickly planted his feet on the board and relaxed his posture, gliding through the water. A triumphant hoot escaped from his lips before he fell backward, arms outstretched, in the ocean after the wave flattened.
ILLUSTRATION/ Safina Wu
“When I am surfing, I have the feeling of dropping in on the face of a wave,” Tran said. “You feel truly weightless. Almost every sound and sensation fades into the view when you are on top of a wave. I have always been an adrenaline junkie, but being in the water is just a completely different feeling.”
Tran’s interest in surfing began when he watched his father ride and conquer waves. As a child, he participated in many sports and had an affinity for outdoor activities. He specifically loved going to the beach, not only to watch his father, but to also admire the other surfers. His father and other surfers inspired him to give the sport a chance.
“I first got into surfing when I saw my dad do it,” Tran said. “He just looked completely at peace and happy when surfing and I wanted to know if I could experience those emotions as well. He passed away soon after and I didn’t get to properly bond with him over surfing. However, I do feel like I am closer to him now than I ever was before.”
Surfing was a shared hobby between Tran and his father, and even after his father’s death, Tran continues to hone his skills. By watching YouTube videos, Tran builds upon his basic knowledge of surfing and learns about more techniques he can put into practice. Most Sundays, he takes his surfboard, surf leash, board wax and water bottle to the Huntington Pier or Oceanside Beach hoping to catch some waves. After a day of surfing from 12 p.m. to 6 p.m., if he has spare time, Tran likes to linger and walk along the shore. He has learned to appreciate the beauty of the ocean and likes to pick up trash that washes on the beach or is left behind. Tran enjoys the sound of the crashing waves and the ombre of the setting sun after a long day of surfing as he packs up all his equipment and heads home.
“Surfing is my sanctuary,” Tran said. “When I am out in the water, alone and at peace, I feel relief. Combine that with the adrenaline from surfing, and I get this euphoric feeling. In the future, I would definitely want to continue with this hobby, but this would not be something I would pursue career-wise. I think keeping it recreational allows me to still have fun without having the added pressure of a competition.”